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Mathew asks:
What advice or tricks can you provide for re-corking a mute, both successful removal of the old cork and application of the new cork?
Dave replies:
This is an excellent question that I rarely get to answer, so thank you for the opportunity!
I will assume this is a straight mute that has long, rectangular cork strips rather than a practice mute that has a conical section of cork. The conical section of cork can be tricky, and I’ll discuss that another time.
First, measure all three dimensions of the cork strips and the placement of the corks on the mute. Your mute should have an odd number of cork strips. If it does not, then consider replacing the four strips with five strips of the same dimension, but spaced 72 degrees apart.
Your next task is to replicate the actual cork strips. I recommend going to an automotive parts store to find gasket cork, which is made of a composite of cork and neoprene, and comes in at least two thicknesses. If a single sheet of gasket cork is not sufficiently deep to replace the cork strips, then you will have to cement layers together to build it up to the right height.
To cement layers together, use a good contact cement (I recommend Weldwood brand, or similar) according to the directions. Put cement on both parts, let dry and then press the cemented sides together. Apply pressure overall to get a good uniform bond. Remember, contact cement will adhere ON CONTACT when used properly. Follow the directions carefully.
After you get a sheet of the correct depth, cut a long strip out of it with a utility knife to a width equal to the longest dimension needed. Cut the individual strips off to the proper width, and you have your cork strips. I recommend using a metal straight edge to do the cutting with the utility knife. Always use extreme care when cutting with a knife, and protect both yourself and the surface on which you are cutting. And, use a new blade for best results.
Remove the old corks with the utility knife, carefully and gently shaving the strip from the mute. Gently scrape the surface clean and smooth without damaging the mute. If old cement and cork bits remain, then use a cotton swab dipped in lacquer thinner to gently remove it. Do so carefully, because the lacquer thinner may damage the finish on the mute. Try to get off all the old cork, but don’t worry if some of the old cement remains.
Dry fit the cork strips before cementing. If the strip is wide and does not follow the curvature of the mute well, then you can curve it by firmly rolling the cork with a rigid, round rod on a hard smooth surface. I use drum sticks to roll corks.
Mark out the cork positions with a soft pencil, if necessary. Usually there is a shadow of the old mute position as a guide. Apply contact cement somewhat generously to the cork strip, and position the strip properly on the mute. Immediately pull the strip off, and you should have transferred a sufficient amount of cement to the mute. Let the cement dry. Carefully reposition the cork strip and press it into place. The strip will be cemented firmly in place.
